ask_the_fishermanGuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
When learning a baitcasting reel. You will have some bad backlashes. They will damage the line. Use mono to start until you have a feel for the reel. The Berkley Big Game is 6-7 dollars for 500-600 yards of 12 lb test. It will fill and reel 4-5 times. This keeps the price low while learning.
Once backlashes are few and minor use braid or fluorocarbon. Braid is very good in weeds and fluoro works well in rocky areas. You can stay with mono but the other lines have more advantages in sensitivity, less stretch, and other factors of performance.
Using braid will be 12-15 dollars to fill the reel each time. A few bad backlashes and it will start to fray and get weak. Fluoro is junk if you need to pick out a backlash. Pulling the line out is fine but once you start picking out crossovers it is ruined.
stoegie05GuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
A heavier mono will be easier to pick the backlashes out of while learning and it’s cheaper for when you have to cut out the spool. Get your spool tension set correctly and practice somewhere open with a fair amount of weight. Start with short casts then work out until you’re casting farther. Once you get decent at casting then start casting to a hula hoop for accuracy. Again start short and work your way out to normal casting distances. Decrease the size of your target until you get proficient at hitting small targets at various distances.
mostly_c0nfusedGuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
mono has too much memory = more backlashes.
swivels_and_sonarGuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
I think the best answer is all of the above. Learning how each behaves will make you more proficient with the baitcaster overall. Whichever you choose to learn first, I wish the best of luck to you.
BirdapotamusGuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
Buy a cheap bulk spool of 15-20 pound mono to learn and move up to more expensive lighter line as your skill improves. Heavier line is easier to pick out ‘professional overruns’. You will no doubt get backlashes, even top pros still get them. Once you understand the causes and making the right corrections you will still get them from time to time but to a much lower degree and easier to remove. Unless you cast into heavy wind or snag a tree limb, those cause a whole other level of backlash. I had some bird nest early on so bad I nearly threw the reel away in frustration. End of the day I prefer the power, comfort, and control of a baitcaster over the negatives that come with.
I personally use 12 lb P-Line Fluoroclear it’s a mono/fluorocarbon copolymer that cast great, holds up to abrasion well, and doesn’t break my bank account.
flyrod_junkyGuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
The best is to learn a leader knot and tie a fluorocarbon leader to a braid main line. But if not fraught fluorocarbon is fine too.
upchuck1383GuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
Braid is the only right answer. Everyone who said mono is setting you up for failure. Braid has zero memory. It’s almost impossible to get a back lash you can’t pick free. Just start with a cheap style and tie a FC leader. Once your comfortable you can ditch the braid.
Leather_Investment61GuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
Braid because when you backlash you can pick it out without ruining the line. Gotta be careful not to cut your hands though.
grappler823GuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
I run braid on my lure casting rods (jackhammers, spinnerbaits etc) because it gives more distance and I can feel everything my lure is doing and floro on my worm rods because I have noticed I catch more fish with it while fishing soft baits and jigs. I really like the seaguar tatsu but wouldnt recommend a beginner start out with it because its like $60 for a regular sized spool and braid isnt much cheaper. I would start out with mono until you feel you have mastered the baitcasting rod just based on cost. I have been throwing a baitcaster for 40 years and still occasionally get backlashes in my braid and when you do it can be really really bad. I see a lot of people recommend braid to a lighter weight floro or mono leader (40# braid and 12# floro) and i dont agree with it and when I ask why they always say braid for the strength, well just like a chain you are only as strong as the weakest link and the weakest link is that light weight floro/mono leader so the strength of the braid is wasted and i dont like the feel of the knot hitting my guide (eventually it will fray the line) and I dont like spending 5 minutes putting an FG knot on it. This is all personal preference the only thing that will work good for you is whatever you are most comfortable with
BoogeOooMoveGuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
As someone who’s just gone through this, I can confidently say, use monofilament until you understand how to deal with backlashes and remove them, once you’ve crossed that bridge, go to braid.
Braid digs into the spool when you backlash and as a beginner you’ll lose a ton of line or have to cut it out. Mono is a pain in the ass for other reasons but it’s cheap so if you have to re-spool, it’s no big deal as you’re learning.
Once I was backlashing only every 20-30 casts, I swapped to braid and it’s been a dream ever since and I rarely backlash. I’d be fairly confident in switching to fluorocarbon at this point but I just prefer braid on all of my combos.
alpobc1GuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
What the heck is a backlash?
I’ve been fishing for years and haven’t heard that.
I haven’t tried braid, always mono. Mono leader on fly line, mono on a spin caster, mono on a sea rig. Catch lots of fish.
PCM97GuestJune 23, 2022 at 11:35 am
Braid would be most expensive but it’s definitely the easiest when it comes to picking out backlashes